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COMPETING OZARK TOURISM ICONS: Old Matt’s Cabin vs. Bagnell Dam

The two biggest tourist centers of the Ozarks are Branson and Lake of the Ozarks. While graphics used to promote travel do not necessarily accurately or honestly represent those places, they can betray the character and history of places. Such is the case with the imagery used to advertise and decorate souvenirs of these two attractions.

Souvenirs from the Shepherd of the Hills Country (Branson). Its dominant motif is Old Matt’s Cabin from Harold Bell Wright’s “The Shepherd of the Hills.” Tourism and recreation were not add-ons to a dam and reservoir project here. They long preceded the building of artificial reservoirs and featured fishing and outdoor recreation with the bucolic locals playing a role.

Branson, near the Missouri-Arkansas line in southwest Missouri, began attracting travelers in the early 190s. Harold Bell Wright’s bucolic novel, Shepherd of the Hills, drew attention to the upper White River hills and their rustic inhabitants. Wright portrayed the inhabitants as colorful primitives and locals claimed to be the inspiration for various characters. The Ross house, known as Old Matt’s Cabin, became a symbol of for the area. It decorated brochures and gifts communicating that a vacation in the Shepherd of the Hills country was trip to the trouble-free past.

Lake of the Ozarks souvenirs feature Bagnell Dam, which created the reservoir for hydro-electric power, not recreation or flood control.

Lake of the Ozarks, on the northern flank of the Ozarks was created in 1931 by the closing of Bagnell Dam. This blockage of the Osage River was built by Union Electric (now AmerenUE) to supply electricity. Lacking any comparable settler mythos, pictures of the dam represented the new lake. This wonder of technology was plastered on tourist promotions and souvenirs. From the beginning, its recreational attractions have been hedonistic pleasure, boating, and fishing in the 54,000-acre reservoir. Perhaps the difficulty of picturing the artificial lake led to the inappropriate use of an industrial structure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most Lens & Pen titles are on sale on our website for half price, postage paid.  See the Ozarks: The Touristic Image, where you can find many more examples of this contrasting branding, is now $12.50, postage paid.

 

More on Lover’s Leaps of Derbyshire, UK

In our chapter on “World Lover’s Leaps,” in Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-tee of Waco, we shared a postcard image and brief account of the love and loss of Hannah Baddeley, a well known part of Stoney Middleton, Derbyshire’s local lore. This 18th century tale tells of a beautiful maiden scorned in love and despairing, who flung herself from the precipitous cliff above the small town. Battered and bruised, she survived, but died two years later.

The one-time way station called Lovers Leap Tavern (now called Curry Cottage) was noted in an 1841 issue of “The Monthly Chronicle.” At one time the inn offered unhappy couples contemplating jumping a chance to repair to a room to reconcile.

 

Today’s Google Alerts brought a much expanded explanation of “How Lover’s Leap in Stoney Middleton Got its Name,” in Great British Life. Author Nathan Fearn consulted with Colin Hall of the Stoney Middleton Heritage Group  who confirmed the unfortunate Miss Baddeley was indeed real, baptized in either 1738 or 1739 (18th century script can be hard to decipher) and buried in 1764, a mere two years after her desperate jump.

The small village, south and west of Sheffield, near Peak District National Park, has in its history colorful characters (“Black Harry” an 18th century highwayman, for example), many historic buildings, and a prominent scene in Tom Cruise’s recent Mission Impossible: 7, other tales of romantic love, and lo and behold – he notes two additional Lover’s Leaps in Derbyshire!  One new to us took place at Dovedale. There the legend attached to another promontory is of a heartbroken lass whose lover, she thought, was killed in the Napoleonic Wars. Happily, he was not. Mr. Fearn also describes the leap at Ashwood Dale, which we located as near Buxton. However, both these lovers’ tales come to happier conclusions than the story of forlorn Miss Baddeley. Follow the link to Great British Life for the juicy details and much more.

Spring travel season is approaching. Those looking for off-the-beaten-path sites to explore can use Lover’s Leap Legends as a guide to romantic tales in spectacular settings across the U.S. and around the world!

Lens & Pen Press is having a half-price sale for all titles. Lover’s Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco is available through our website for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), USPS postage paid.

Sappho – Poet and Legend

Sappho of Lesbos and other ancient Greeks in the recently redesigned Archeological Museums. With thanks to Joe Yogerst, photographer and colleague!

Here she is – in all her classic sculptural splendor, the leading lady of legend for millennia: Sappho herself. Fabled poetess of fifth century B.C.E. Greece, her passionate leap from the Leucadian cliffs into the Ionian Sea provoked, they said, by despair over unrequited love. On a recent trip through Greece and Turkey my colleague Joe Yogerst, captured her now serene image when visiting Istanbul.  

Sappho’s fame in her own time came from her poetry. Over time, her impetuous and dramatic expression of despair at the indifference of the boatman, Phaeon, grew to legend, transcended national boundaries, crossed time and landscape and is now a feature across the globe.

When Leland found Mark Twain’s account in Life on the Mississippi, of Winona’s near fatal leap from a peak above Lake Pepin, we didn’t know we were embarking on a quest that would range from here to ancient Greece, across the westering American frontier, and to remote island nations of the Pacific and the Indian Ocean.  Nope. We just laughed at Twain’s sardonic account and his description of the raconteur who told the tale.

But the quest beckoned and off we went – to find a string, a reason, a common thread for the tales of passionate love so compelling that life without it was not possible. It took a while to get from Lake Pepin in Wisconsin to Cape Leucadia in ancient Greece – but the crumbs were scattered across the millennia, across continents.

Over the centuries her story never faded from cultural memory. Indeed, her woeful saga inspired other romantic tales: Romeo and Juliet was one such tale. But so was the story of lovely Frida, a country lass from the west of England; and the interfaith lovers in eighteenth century Spain who met their fate at La Peña de los Enamorados near the city of Antequera, Málaga Province in Andalusia.

Sappho taking the Leucadian leap, steel engraving from a painting by Richard Westfall. Sappho’s plunge was a favorite theme of nineteenth-century artists.

We found many images of Sappho over the centuries.  Her plunge was a favorite theme of nineteenth-century artists. Pictures of Indian maidens actually jumping off cliffs are rare. However, in Gadsden, Alabama a 9’ tall bronze statue created by the Baroness Suzanne Silvercruys commemorates the leap of Noccalula.

Google alerts most often bring up the Leaps at Rock City, Tenn, Jamaica’s Leap above Cutlass Bay, and (recently) Trincomalee Harbor in Sri Lanka. Road (or sea, or air) trip anyone?

The first account that we found in the new United States was reported by Zebulon Pike (yes the Pike the mountain in Colorado was named for). Before his western explorations, in 1805, he was commissioned to find the source of the Mississippi. As they waited out the weather one night, the grizzled Scottish trapper/trader guide regaled them with tales, one of which was about a young Sioux woman who was being forced into a loveless marriage. Rather than submit, she cast herself from the heights above Lake Pepin (full circle back to Mark Twain!). Pike’s journal of his expedition up the Mississippi was reviewed by the The Baltimore Repertory (Jan. 1811).

Pike’s brief mention of the Sioux woman’s leap from the cliff along Lake Pepin was quoted in full. Then followed a comparison of the Indian legend in the wilderness of Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase with a 2,700-year-old classical legend.. . . . . “It was thought that ancient Greece alone had her Leucadian rock; and the desperate leap of Sappho had consecrated it in the eyes of all the enthusiasts of love in succeeding generations. Who would have supposed that the rocks of the Mississippi were destined to be its rival . . .?

Lover’s Leap Legends, p. 47

Princess Noccalula, frozen in her desperate impulse above the falls. Bronze statue by the Baroness Suzanne Silvercruys, Gadsden, Alabama.

 


Lens & Pen Press is having a half-price sale for all titles. Lover’s Leap Legends, Damming the Osage, Mystery of the Irish Wilderness and others are now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for half the original price, postage paid.

Lovers Leap – Sri Lanka

Ravana’s Cleft, Trincomalee. Seen from the Swami rock (West). credit AntanO/Anton, 2014. Used under creative common license

Courtesy of Google Alerts–a far flung (pardon the pun) Lovers Leap to add to our ‘inventory’ of world Leaps: Sri Lanka in the 17th century. Among destinations featured in The Sunday Observer, “the oldest and most circulated weekly English-language newspaper in Sri Lanka since 1928,” is the dramatic plunge of a heartbroken maiden into an angry sea:

“The story of Lovers Leap is a sorrowful tale of unrequited love in which Francina Van Rheed, the daughter of a Dutch official, engaged to a young Dutch officer who broke off the engagement upon the end of his foreign service. Forsaken and distraught, she watched atop Swami Rock as the vessel carrying her faithless lover passed beyond the horizon in 1687. Overcome by sorrow, she flung herself into the violent sea – a drop of 400 feet.”

Had we known of this dramatic location and heart breaking tale, it would have made our book, Lovers Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco.

Lens & Pen Press is having a half-price sale for all titles. Lovers Leap Legends: From Sappho of Lesbos to Wah-Wah-Tee of Waco is now available on our website at www.dammingtheosage.com for $17.50 (half the original price of $35), postage paid.

The saga of young anti-moderns settling in a region renowned for its pre-modern image is the subject of an intriguing new book, “WHERE MISFITS FIT: COUNTERCULTURE AND INFLUENCE IN THE OZARKS”

American youth dissatisfied with mainstream values in the 1960s and ‘70s expressed their rebellion in a number of ways. Men grew long hair. They marched for women’s lib and Black civil rights. Protests against the Vietnam war led the nightly news. Free love, pot, LSD, and Bob Dylan were in. A counterculture fundamental was a belief that industrialization degraded the environment. Harmony with nature was soulful.

Hippies founded communes to grow their own food, enjoy clean air and water, and do as they pleased without the interference of squares and killjoys. A few of these idealistic, back-to-the-landers headed for the hills and hollers of the Ozarks, copies of The Mother Earth News and the Whole Earth Catalogue in their rucksacks.Thomas Kersen

In the 1970s author Thomas Michael Kersen’s 29-year-old father, Michael Kersen, quit his managerial job at a fast-food restaurant in El Paso, packed his family, and, with some friends, lit out for an 80-acre patch of property in the wilds of the Arkansas Ozarks. They wintered in a shack without electricity or running water. When it rained, he and his sister stuffed newspapers (unsuccessfully) in holes in the roof.

Like similar groups, the Kersens were unschooled in agriculture, underfunded, and oddly unaware of other colonies. The middle-class urban youth, many college-educated, respected the music, crafts and survival skills of old-timers and sometimes bonded with their backcountry neighbors. Conservative retirees, who were also attracted by the cheap land, were more likely to take exception to counterculture lifestyles.

Despite the vividly described hardships, the experience was stimulating for young Kersen. He is today an associate professor of sociology at Jackson State University, Mississippi. During the pursuit of his PhD from Mississippi State University he became aware of the complexities of Southern identities. Southern Missouri and northern Arkansas are not “Dixie” but have Southern components. Like Frederick Jackson Turner’s thesis on the American frontier, Professor Kersen thinks the Ozarks is also a “transformational space”:

In the case of my research, I consider the Ozarks itself a liminal place; it is a “betwixt and between” region at the crossroads of various types of cultural heritages, and one in which isolation and independence spurred a diverging culture.

This “betwixt and between” state of the Ozarks often puts the region and its inhabitants in a situation of challenging normative structure of society at all levels. The region abounds with blurred boundaries such as southern/nonsouthern, past/future, and individualistic/communalistic. It also attracts people who live on the margins of society, sometimes known as tricksters, or “edgemen” as Turner called them. Last, when looking at the Ozarks, one is confronted with the question of whether the region “live(s) with and in the nation as a whole” and how the nation regards the region.

The liminal nature of the Ozarks fosters eccentricity and creativity. The Ozarks has also captured the imagination of people outside the region and motivated them to engage in alternative or countercultural activities. The region has lured all types of edgemen and women: folks that were part of counterculture groups, communards, cultists, and UFO enthusiasts. In addition to fringe groups, reporters, Hollywood personalities, and other key figures in popular culture have found the mythopoetic aspects of the region exciting to explore and exploit. Al Capp used Li’l Abner’s Dogpatch, a mythic Ozarks, to explore social problems. Even real towns, such as Eureka Springs, have a long history as places many people believe possess a mystical energy vortex. To a greater extent than in other regions, some Americans sought an idealized version of the Ozarks to found communes and follow back-to-the-land practices.

Moving past previous research that discusses the Ozarks as a unique region, I argue that the Ozarks is a liminal region, or a “thin place.” They are a place that defies conventional categorization and often attracts creative, often marginal people. The Ozarks are where the sacred and paranormal worlds are close by. Such places, like the town of Eureka Springs, foster inclusiveness, and creativity. This live-and-let-live attitude was attractive to communal folk who wanted to make their lives and the world a better place. It is also a region that appealed to the religious devout, LGBT individuals, alternative economic practitioners, and others as somewhere they could live more freely and openly than was the case in most other regions.

Wrote Kersen: “In the pages to follow, I use my sociological imagination as a scaffolding for the narrative about the Ozarks, modernity, and popular culture. Part of the sociological imagination depends on exploring the cultural and historical contexts that have shaped the lives of a number of different groups that have called the Ozarks home.”

Indeed, few books on the Ozarks mention Oswald Spengler, Soren Kierkegaard, Max Weber, or Paul Tillich. The book does evidence a familiarity with standard Ozark history and literature: “The Ozark Symposium has been the springboard from which much of what is in this book began. I will always be grateful that Brooks Blevins was the first to invite me to come and hear the various presenters. After that first visit, I was hooked and have faithfully attended every year.”

Some of Kersen’s interpretations are unorthodox, such as considering Li’l Abner a “trickster”—a mythic character known for his defeat of conventionality and disrespect for authority. Inserting a Jungian archetype in an Ozark book is an example of his “sociological imagination.” Al Capp’s hunky hillbilly hero is not usually considered devious or clever.

“Where misfits fit” is a phrase that has been applied to Eureka Springs, Arkansas for decades. Founded on a misconception that its numerous springs had medical benefits, the town attracted schemers and dreamers a century before the influx of counterculture youth. A haven for writers and artists, it was hip before there were hippies. Kersen describes the relative harmony the bohemian resort town achieved between its liberal constituents and the builders of a Christian theme park. Anti-Semite Gerald L. K. Smith never fully realized his dreams, but he did live long enough to create a 65-foot statue of Christ and found an outdoor drama, The Great Passion Play. Due to the financial benefits derived from these attractions, town fathers overlooked Smith’s bigoted past. So too have the newly arrived counter-culturalists. “Development and money making are very important,” wrote Kersen.

Eureka Springs Centennial mural by Louis Freund, 1979. This former Victorian spa in the hills of northwest Arkansas became a haven for folky bohemians when faith in spring-water cures died. It was a perfect habitat for counter-cultural idealists in the 1970s and 1980s.

The Eureka Springs Art Wall is a city and arts council project. The Plywood panels painted by local high school students often illustrate the hippie influence on the town’s image. A few miles north, Lothlorian Commune builds an impressive wood geodesic dome. Like many, back-to-the-land ventures, it folded after a decade. Many of its idealistic members went on to successful professional careers, several achieving doctorate degrees. Basically, the book advocates the idea that the countercultural invasion of the Ozarks has been overall beneficial.

The hippie era contributions to Ozark music are discussed. Several rock bands achieved, at least for a time, national recognition. Black Oak Arkansas, though from a small delta community of that name, did repair between tours to a 1,300-acre commune twenty miles from Mountain Home. Given that the trickster exhibits “unbridled sexuality” and Black Oak’s music was uninhibited, Kersen considers them, like Li’l Abner, tricksters.

Ozark Mountain Daredevils, the other regional group to achieve fame, wasn’t as “misfit” as the bad boys from Black Oak: “Many of the songs are set in dreams and mythic places that emphasize ambiguous or indeterminant facets of liminal space. Often, these fables focus on the wanderer, the homebody, modernity, and nostalgia.”

He met with members of a little-known band who personified, in his mind, the Ozark back-to-the-land movement:

…the Hot Mulch Band arose out of the region’s communal efforts, and thus, it emerged as the musical expression of alternative living in the Ozarks. Indeed, the band epitomized the cultural and creative matrix of the region and showed people that there was a third way to life rather than left or right. … Many back-to-landers in the Missouri Ozarks were focused on living harmoniously with nature, each other, and with their neighbors. Such living is a form of communitas that linked a reverence of nature and highlighted sustainable energy and food practices.

Indeed a 1981 song by the Hot Mulch Band, Ozark Mountain Mother Earth News Freak, is an anthem to the movement:

Well, I’m moving to the country where
Everything is fine, I’m
Gonna live in a dome and drink dandelion
Wine and
When the collapse comes I won’t get the
Blues
I’ll have all the back issues of the Mother
Earth News.

I’ll get my little sweetie and my
Volkswagon Van
See the real-estate man and buy me
Some land
A few acres cleared with lots of trees
A place
That we can fix up however we please

We’ll get our eggs from chickens and
Milk from a cow
A horse that plows and book that tells
How
An organic garden growin’ comfrey and
Peas
Getting honey from our bees and fruit
From our trees

Self-sufficient, well that’s the name of the
Game, I’m
Gonna get myself a system self contained
A wind mill to give me my electricity
No phone in my dome I’ll use ESP

No more Coca Cola, stop eating
Trash
Get into plantin’ gonna grow my own
Stash
Plant by the moon and talk to my plants
Consult the I Ching and learn to do a rain
Dance
Get into harmony with Nature and the Universe
I’ll do Yoga in the morning if my back
Don’t get worse

Red Zinger Tea and Vitamin B-6
One keeps me high the other keeps off
Ticks

Listen to Ozark Mountain Mother Earth News Freak,

If Kersen’s “sociological imagination” is occasionally professorial, overall, the book is thoughtful and original. His coverage of bands with a back-to-the-land tie-in and the fate of various communes is noteworthy. In the final three chapters, the author affirms his belief that the overall influence of these idealistic, neo-Romantic, often educated young rebels on the region has been positive.

Misfits fits nicely with an earlier book, Hipbillies: Deep Revolution in the Arkansas Ozarks by Jared M. Phillips whom Kersen references. Both college professors are in sympathy with the liberal beliefs and agendas of the young Ozark immigrants. They do realistically point out examples of their naïveté and agricultural inexperience. Persisting groups have overcome their initial ignorance and some have even prospered.

One might think the influx of pot-smoking, anti-establishment rebels would clash with conservative natives. For the most part, they were tolerated. Kersen’s book makes the point the Ozarks has historically been a refuge for those out-of-step with the dominant culture. Misfits and hipbillies fit in remarkably well and when their ventures flopped it was not due to the prejudice of locals. It’s a neat trick reconciling personal recollections with two distinct mythos—the old traditional history and newer hippie experiences, but Thomas Kersen has done an artful job.

Where Misfits Fit is available from the University Press of Mississippi  for $25 (paperback) plus postage.

Howard Finster’s Paradise Garden – a Pilgrimage

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was the weekend of Finster Fest, a gathering of folk artists in Dowdy Park in Summerville. I was working in Atlanta at the time, so I headed north that summer day to wander in the fantastical Paradise Garden of Howard Finster. Leland and I have known of his Bible-inspired paintings since the late ‘70s or early ‘80s when we dealt in Americana, folk art, and American Indian goods. Back then self-taught artists like Finster were categorized as ‘outsider’, ‘visionary,’ ‘naïve’ and folk – sometimes all of these, depending on who was writing.

The U.S. Bicentennial spurred interest in all forms of Americana – from colonial furniture to the quilts of Gee’s Bend and the independent visual voices of folks like Finster. We had worked with Dale Eldred and the Kansas City Art Institute to acquire and preserve the works of Jesse Howard. We found Robert E. Smith after seeing his paintings at the Missouri State Fair. Leland found a stack of Edward Patrick Byrne’s paintings of futuristic houses in the back room of a north Missouri antique shop. So my day trip to Summerville Georgia really was a pilgrimage.

In the intervening decades, Finster’s work had been recognized, collected, exhibited and become the subject of academic and museum publications that placed him and likeminded artists in a legitimate cultural context. Catalogued and preserved in museum collections, documented, inventoried and explained as his work is now (the High Museum in Atlanta has a large collection on permanent display), I was curious to see his built environment, Paradise Garden.

Finster’s couple of acres were buzzing with visitors. The small frame house, well decorated by his hand and tastefully expanded by the Paradise Garden Foundation to include a gallery of works, held a small gift shop, a couple of rooms of prints, video room with an interesting documentary playing on a loop. We roamed the garden and buildings freely, wandering from Mirror House (all mirrors inside and out) to Mosaic Garden, past the bicycle tower and Serpent of the Wilderness concrete sculpture. According to the Self Guided Tour booklet, Howard was fascinated by real snakes (“Please stay on the path,” the booklet cautions.) The High Museum has one of his snake sculptures; another was created for an album cover for sort-of-local rock group R.E.M. (from Athens, Georgia). Bits of glass and ceramic are inlaid into meandering concrete sidewalks and rock walls. “I built this park of broken pieces to try to mend a broken world of people who are travelling their last road,” he said in Man of Visions. It is a wondrous place.

It wasn’t always this way. Finster’s 2.5 acres were once a low-lying, swampy place with not much to recommend it. But his vision saw a beautiful garden, with trickling streams and flowering vines and dancing light. A place where angels would appear. And he made it so. He ditched and drained and planted and built. He recycled long before recycling was cool. He organized the leftovers of life and machines – and then made something out of them.

Larry Schlachter, owner of Folk America (www.folkamerica.net), a shop just down the road from Paradise Garden, knew Howard Finster. In his recollection, Howard was not as concerned with maintaining the existing structures as he was with creating more. The Foundation has done a good job of restoring and maintaining the grounds, which had become overgrown and worn. Schlacter handles a number of artists as well as carrying pieces from Finster and family members.

Athens Georgia rock band, R.E.M. graced the cover of Rolling Stone, April 20, 1989, labeled America’s Hippest Band, in an article entitled R.E.M.’s Brave New World by Anthony Decurtis.

Finster did not make the cover himself, but got a five-page color spread inside. “God’s brushman,” David Handelman said, was hip, his art making the album covers for both R.E.M. and David Byrne (Little Creatures).

 

Click on any image to see the full gallery.